It is a ten kilometre drive to the first water-hole, Cubitje Quap. The birds have not even started to arrive in their flocks to drink water, yet. The road is in a very poor condition. It is a thirteen kilometre drive to Kwang. There are cars at Kwang, but everyone is parked in the shade, waiting for the animals to come and drink. There are a few Wildebeest nearby, but they are just sunning themselves and grazing. The water-hole blinks in the early morning light. It is another thirteen kilometres to Bedinkt. There is no activity at this water-hole either.
We turn around to drive back, even the landscape seems bleak. The sun has risen and streams its warmth into the car, promising another hot day. We bump along the road, and as we near Kwang, we see the cars have stopped in the road. We stop too, as our way is blocked. What is everyone looking at ? Camera lenses are poking out of the cars, and photos are being taken, but we are not able to drive closer.
Wildebeest grazing A few Springbok are starting to amble into the riverbed. We wait patiently, and then an animal on the opposite side of the road sits up. We see its head, and yup, we had guessed right ...it is cheetah ! There are two cheetahs prowling in the long grass, but we only see one. Cameras click away, as the cheetah silently stalks along the length of cars. There is great excitement as it nears our vehicle. Noel snaps a portrait shot, as the animal comes closer. It passes Noel's window, but is too close for a photograph with his long lenses. Then... it disappears. We look in the side mirrors, and all Noel can see is a tail. The cheetah has flopped down in the shade of the Land Rover, and is crouching low, watching the approaching Springbok. We wait for over an hour, nothing happens. Our only view consists of other cars and a cheetah tail. I regret not bringing a book with me. In my haste this morning, I left my books in our tent. The Springbok come closer, then they suddenly become alert. They snort in alarm, and flee. The cheetah, having been detected, stands up, and goes back in the long grass away from the riverbend. It disappears over a dune. It is a failed hunt, and we drive back to camp.
The cheetah that lay in the shade of the Land Rover
The Mullins have spent a relaxing morning in the hide at the camp. We are hot and sweaty, as we tell of the cheetah hunt. They tell us they have been watching the antics of the jackals, and how these agile animals try catch the doves at the water-hole. It was a failed hunt for the cheetahs as well as for the jackals. It was a bit of a disappointing morning.
I find a book to read, and do not join the others at the swimming pool that afternoon. I take a shower, turning on the cold tap only. The shampoo barely lathers, the water leaves an oily film on my hair, and I wonder why I even bother to wash my hair. I am lying in the tent having a nap, when I am awakened by the neighbour in the next campsite. A small snake has been seen, but it has now disappeared. I look for tracks in our camp, but only see footprints. I missed the snake sighting.
The Greek salad
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