KURUMAN - HERE WE COME !

It has been eleven months of waiting. Yup, the booking for the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park was made  on the day the bookings opened - 1st December 2011. We were so excited, as the months rolled by. The booking was paid and secure, the itinerary had been checked and re-checked, the camping equipment had been inspected ... Now, the Land Rover was being packed, the day of departure had dawned. The roof rack was in place, the army tent was being secured, big plastic containers called ammunition boxes were being secured, a fold-up table was being secured, all tied down with ratchet strapping on the vehicle roof  The camping fridge had been packed with vacuum-packed steaks and traditional South African sausage called "boerewors". There were bags of charcoal for the barbeque or "braai" as we called it. But, most important of all were the big 25 litre containers to be filled with water. The bore-hole water in the Kalahari is too saline and brack to be used for drinking and cooking. A cup of salty coffee with a strange, bitter taste is not to my liking. There is a risk of dehydration in the hot conditions, so we needed three to four litres of drinking water per person per day.

Noel was finally ready, no wait, some more camera equipment ... okay, now we are ready... wait ...some more radio equipment ...wait...some more stuff for that mysterious person called JUSTIN CASE...okay, now we are ready ... wait ... we have forgotten the binoculars ... the bird identification book ... did we pack it ? A final check of the radio, a check for the second battery to power the fridge, a goodbye to the dog and to our son, Rowan, and off we go ...

A week before, Noel and I had travelled to Dragon Peaks Mountain Resort in the Drakensberg Mountains. Saturday, 27th October had heralded a miserable, cold and wet morning. It was a working weekend for Noel, as he was promoting Sigma lenses at the Natal Photographic Society Congress. I had met Dave and Joy Mullin at previous events and promotions, when they were representing the Hibiscus Coast Camera Club. They had told me of their plans to travel to Mabuasehube in Botswana in August. Unfortunately, they were unable to go. Mabuasehube is the far eastern section of the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park. I stood chatting to Dave, watching the dripping rain, shivering in the thin jersey I had brought with me. It was summer in South Africa and it was unseasonally cold. "Dave," I said, "we are going to the Kalahari next Saturday. Would you like to come with us ?" Dave did not hesitate. "I would love to," was his reply, and then he hesitated, "I must first ask Joy."

The Mullins had to pack up their camp site and caravan in the pouring rain and slushy mud of the Drakensberg, and travel home to Shelly Beach, Kwa-Zulu Natal. Tents had to be dried, provisions had to be bought, the camping fridge was re-stocked, accommodation had to be booked for overnight stays en-route to the Park. It must have been a hectic week for them. But now, it  was Saturday evening, 3rd November, and we were sitting with the Mullins, enjoying a scrumptious buffet at the Red Sands Country Lodge, 17 kilometres from the town of Kuruman.

The town of Kuruman was our half-way stop to the Park, and we would overnight at the Azalea Guest House. We had already reached the Kalahari Desert, after passing through the town of Vryburg. Kuruman is home to a natural spring referred to as "The Eye". This spring arises from an underground dolomitic cave, and supplies the town with over 20 million litres of sweet water every day. It is possibly the biggest natural spring in the Southern Hemisphere. Dave and Joy visited this oasis to fill a water container, and admired the water-lillies and Willow trees. An endangered species of cichlid fish together with carp, barbel, bream and blue kurper are found in the cool water.

The Eye at Kuruman

  

In 1821, Robert Moffat founded a London Missionary Society mission station in Kuruman. The famous explorer, David Livingstone, took up a position as a missionary in 1841. He married Mary, the beautiful daughter of Robert Moffat, and settled in Kuruman. The Livingstone's house is now a museum.

As we sat savouring the cuisine presented to us at the Red Sands Country Lodge, we discussed the two roads leading to the Park. The gravel road via Hotazel, ( yes, there is a town called Hotazel ) is shorter than the other road, but in a poor condition. We opted for the much longer, tarred route along the N14 to Upington.

Two excited couples went to sleep that night dreaming of arriving at the Park the following day. I could not wait to see Twee Rivieren, which means "two rivers". It is the main camp and headquarters of the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park. There was still a long road ahead of us ...

Azalea Guest House in Kuruman