EARLY MORNING ALONG THE AUOB

Today, we are the first to drive out of the gate. I am sleeping a lot better at Mata Mata. There are no sounds of marauding jackals stealing from the campers. No campers swearing and chasing jackals in the middle of the night, but no roaring lions, either. It is a very peaceful campsite. Mata Mata is a border post with Namibia. There have been complaints in the past that the Namibian immigration officials throw raucous  parties, and run their noisy generator all night, but it is has been very quiet.

Spotted Hyena

We are overtaken by a young guy in a small car. The car rattles so much, it sounds like it may fall apart. These roads are also very corrugated. The young guy tells us later, that he is on a quest to photograph a leopard. I am also hoping to see the leopard. We have heard from others that there is a cheetah mom and two cubs that often hunt near the camp. I scan the riverbed. The Auob is wide and flat. It is good territory for a cheetah to gather speed and chase down its prey. New camps have been built along the Auob, and new roads have been built. For a long section from Mata Mata we travel through the  dunes.                                        

 We feel deprived of the riverbed scenery. Now, we are only able to travel to  four water-holes in a morning: Craig Lockhart; Dalkeith; Fourteenth Borehole and Thirteenth Borehole. Guess what, the Thirteenth Borehole is not working, so the animals are not coming to drink there. Noel mutters about being limited to three water-holes. He mutters that the Park has gone to the dogs, but soon cheers up when he gets his first photographic opportunity, and there is just enough early morning light. He photographs the Spotted Hyena running in the riverbed. It is our first sighting of  Spotted Hyena this trip.

 Near Dalkeith, we have a lucky sighting. It is African Wild Cat, and it is out in the open. African Wild Cats   ( Felis lybica ) are largely nocturnal, and will often sleep in a tree during the day. According to research, the African Wild Cat was tamed by the Egyptians some 3 000 years B.C. It features prominently in Ancient Egyptian sculptures, and was considered to be sacred. It has a distinctive sitting position because of its long legs. It is the forebear of the domestic cat. Inter-breeding with the domestic cat is able to take place, and therefore, populations of pure-bred African Wild Cat are rare today. Pure-bred specimens are only found in remote areas of Southern Africa. They feed on rodents, birds, reptiles and large insects.

African Wild Cat

"Teresa will love this photo," says Noel, referring to my friend who lives in Missouri, USA, and who absolutely adores cats. I send her this photo and her comment is "WOW !!!". 

This is not our last sighting of a nocturnal species this morning. They are far away, and lying in the shade, but Noel manages a few photographs, just for the record. We see Bat-eared fox ( Otycyon megalotis ), or as we call them " fat-eared boxes". The Bat-eared fox mates for life, and takes good care of its young. It is often seen at dawn and dusk, listening for underground insects, by ambling along with its big ears close to the ground. If a Bat-eared fox hears the rustle of a burrowing insect, it will use its fore-paws to dig furiously in an effort to find the little creature. Its prey consists mainly of termites, but they will also eat other insects and scorpions, small mice and berries.

The pair of Bat-eared foxes.

"You see," says Noel, when we get back to camp, "why you must get up early, and be first out of the gate." I just groan as I have had to get up just after 4.00 a.m. every morning.

THE RADIO HAMS

We are sharing the best campsite in Mata Mata with a great couple: Geoff and Lynette Tinker. Geoff took one look at the Land Rover with its aerial and radio mast, and asked  Noel, "Are you a Radio Ham ?" What a question to ask Noel, he is obsessed with radio communication, and spends hours making contact with other Radio Hams all over the world.  Geoff, callsign ZS1LM , it was great to meet you and Lynette.

Geoff and Lynette point out a bench opposite their tent, overlooking the river. I go to read the inscription on the bench.

The bench, with our campsite in the background.

 The inscription reads:

                        "  Ter herinnering aan

                              Calie Pistorius

                              1932  -  2005

" The place where I worship is the wide open spaces."

Calie Pistorius was born in Pretoria and grew up in Reivelo,

Wolmaranstad, Pietermaritzburg and George.

He matriculated at Outeniqua High School and qualified as

a C.A. at the University of Pretoria. At the age of 29 he 

became professor and Head of the Department of Accounting,

then Director of the Postgraduate School of Business,

finally Vice-Principal: Management Services at the 

University of Pretoria.

Calie was an enthusiastic amateur rally driver, navigator

and organiser, a yachtsman, a "world" traveller and

radio amateur ( call sign ZS1CWP ).

He made radio contact with amateurs internationally

from Union's End, which gave him enormous pleasure.

He celebrated his 68th birthday at Mata Mata under 

his beloved Southern stars.

When Calie retired he moved to Knysna from where he 

undertook many 4X4 safaris to the remote places of

Southern Africa. "

Geoff ( ZS1LM ) and Noel ( ZR6DX ) could not wait to set up the ZS6BKW HF antenna attached to the  fibreglass mast, which is permanently  mounted  to the side of the Land Rover. When the mast is extended, it reaches a height of eight metres.  Noel had set up this system in Nossob, to chat to his friends at the West Rand Amateur Radio NoelClub. Nick Dreyer, ZS6NCK was a regular contact. I brought Noel and Geoff some refreshment in the form of beers, the two of them sounded like two little excited boys as they made contacts, around the country. They were transmitting on the 40 metre band. Noel even managed to listen to the club bulletin from Pretoria, and his club bulletin on the Sunday.

The mobile station at Mata Mata

'

ROLLERCOASTER RIDE

Day 6 has dawned. I slept well. The noisy lions had left sometime during the night. There was no activity at the water-hole, and no one in the hide. The campers looked disappointed, there was no adrenalin rush and excitement. It was a calm and tranquil morning. We went on a last drive up to Kwang.

Noel was very excited to see the Brown Hyena again. We drove alongside it, following it until it had disappeared. We were sitting at Kwang watching some kudu that were on the far side of the riverbed. We saw them stiffen and they turned to watch behind us. It was Noel that spotted the solitary male lion walking down to the water.

The lion at Kwang

The lion had a drink at the water-hole, and then went to lie down on the side of the road. The Mullins had seen a Honey Badger on their way to Kwang, so they arrived later, but they had time to photograph the lion posing on the side of the road. "How do you get the lions to lie next to the road and pose for us, Noel ?" asked Dave, with a grin on his face. The Mullins certainly had a lot of lion photographs to show their grandchildren.

It was time to break down camp. We savoured a last cup of coffee at Nossob, packed the two vehicles, said goodbye to fellow campers, and set off for Mata Mata.

We took the Kamqua dune road to Mata Mata, a journey of three hours in the gruelling heat of a Kalahari midday. It was a "rollercoaster ride" in the dunes, drive up, crest the dune and down the other side and up the next dune. The road is seldom flat, as it winds its way through the burnt-orange coloured dune-field. Dave said that the dune road was a lot of fun, and made him feel like he was a kid again. The Mullins were stopping to take photos of the gemsbok ( oryx ) and the ostriches dust-bathing in the dunes.

Oryx in the dunes. Photo: D. Mullin

 We had planned a picnic of salad and cold-meat at the Kamqua picnic site. When we arrived there, there was very little shade and the sun had reached its zenith. It was hot, hot, hot ! We cancelled the picnic, and drove to Mata Mata where we checked in, and then we were so grateful to find that the biggest and shadiest tree in the campsite was available, We began to unpack, thankful that we had the shade of the old Camelthorn tree to set up camp.

The Mata Mata campsite

THE PRIDE OF NOSSOB

The lions had roared and bickered at the water-hole the whole night. Their vocal outbursts had punctured the silence of the night, making the noise reverberate throughout the camp. It is a chilling sound that is meant to provoke fear. I was even imagining that the flimsy tent poles were vibrating with each roar. It was pretty much a sleepless night, so I got up early and made my way to the hide. The hide was jam-packed with people sitting squashed up on narrow benches. A big black-maned lion had wandered down to the water-hole to quench his thirst. Shutters clicked, but the shutter speeds were too slow, as the light was still very low. People reported that there were three lionesses, and two males in the vicinity. Some people had even stayed up the whole night, shining their spotlights on the lions. The hide was too cramped for my liking. "Hey," said Noel, " Let's see what we can find on a drive." Dave and Joy were possibly thinking that the Hammonds had lost their minds, again. We were giving up potentially wonderful photographic opportunities of Kalahari lions, just to take a gamble on a drive. We rushed to the office to get our permit, grabbed the keys ( which had been safely stored, this time ) and drove to the camp gate. I opened the gate hurriedly, and with much trepidation knowing that there was a pride of lions lying less than a hundred metres away.

The gate at Nossob Camp

We drove to Kwang, the sun's rays were starting to stretch across the riverbed. There were a few other cars parked there. We waited, and then we were rewarded. A Brown Hyena walked across from the dunes.

Brown Hyena

The light was still low, but Noel managed to get this photograph of this nocturnal animal. The Brown Hyena is mainly a scavenger, but will also eat bird eggs, insects, and fruit like the Tsamma Melon. The Tsamma Melon ( Citrullus Lanatus ) is a valuable plant in the desert eco-system. It is an annual plant, which bears ripe fruit in mid-winter, and contains up to 95% water. During the dry winters, this fruit becomes the staple water source for many animals. The Brown Hyena eats the flesh and seeds of the Tsamma Melon, but does not digest the seeds. The hard outer covering of the seeds is broken down in the digestive tract of the Brown Hyena, and are passed out in the dung. The seeds are then protected by the dung, and are not eaten by rodents, and are able to germinate. These animals are usually solitary, and are not seen during the day.

The Mullins were proud of their photos, too. They had spent a wonderful morning in the Nossob Hide, photographing lion activity.

Photos: David Mullin

The lions spent the day at the hide. During the hot afternoon, they slept underneath the hide in the shade. I could just imagine the warm, fetid lion breath seeping through the gaps in the wooden planked floor of the hide. The hide remained packed with people, but at midday, one of the males came right up to the camp fence, where the campers were about a metre away from the animal. The lion was roaring, as campers rushed to see him. It had been a good day at Nossob. 

Early evening, there were more lion skirmishes, growling and roaring. Braai fires were abandoned as campers ran to the hide. I was tired, and as I settled down to sleep, my ears were filled with the sounds of fighting lions and marauding jackals. Tonight was our last night at Nossob. It was with a twinge of sadness, that I realised that the holiday was now half-way through.

LOST KEYS AND LOST MINDS

Nossob is a remote camp, as the nearest town is Upington, which is 640  kilometres away. Upington would be where one would find a locksmith. Do we need a locksmith ? Oh yes, Noel has lost the keys for the Land Rover. I am standing outside our tent with Dave and Joy. Noel is flustered, and he asks me where he left his keys the previous evening. I indicate the pouch hanging from the arm of the camping chair. The keys are not there. Do jackals steal keys ? The keys have a steel tag, and not a leather one, which may be favoured by jackals, as they have a penchant for leather shoes. Noel had set the alarm for 3.50 a.m. that morning, to make sure that I was going to be ready, and we could be first to drive out of the gate. Now, we have to hunt for the keys. I am mystified as I saw Noel place the keys in the pouch the previous evening. It is just after 4.00 a.m., it is still dark, and we are standing around looking most forlorn. "Well," says Noel, "there is only one thing to do, and that is to unpack the entire tent." Noel dives into the tent, bustles about, and then whoops, "I have found them, They were next to my stretcher. I remember now, I got up last night, and put the rusks in the car, just in case the jackals managed to reach the container. " The Mullins retreat, shaking their heads. I am still half asleep, but relieved. I hardly have time to grab a cup of coffee, before Noel is agitating as he wants to get going. As we race off, I am sure the Mullins are thinking we have lost our minds.

We rumble along the badly corrugated road past Cubitje Quap, then Kwang, we do not see very much. It is still early, and we push on to the next water-hole, Bedinkt. We are rewarded, as there is a big black-maned lion lying in a clearing right next to the road. We have the sighting to ourselves, as the lion poses for us. Dave was so excited, as he had never been this close to a wild lion. We were less than two metres away, and the lion just lay there. It was starting to get hot, and as we had snapped many photos of our feline friend, we made our way back to camp.

                                                        The lion at Bedindkt

The corrugated road had caused the Land Rover's dashboard to work loose. It was in danger of falling right off. Back at camp, Noel found a roll of insulation tape, and did some temporary repairs, to hold up the dashboard.. A breeze had come up, and made the weather feel cooler. Cumulus clouds had appeared in the sky, but the pattern they formed made them look like they were corrugated, too.

Fellow campers stopped to chat. It was really great to meet Natalalie and her dad, Didier. Natalie told Noel that they had seen the vultures bathing at Cubitje Quap. "That's where I am spending the afternoon," said Noel, "Anyone like to join me ?" Carmen joined Noel, and the two of them sped off to spend the afternoon at Cubitje Quap.

 


A Bateleur pair at Cubitje Quap

                                                           The rare Lappet-faced vulture

I was feeling drained with the early morning start and the heat. We did not light the braai fire, but made chicken wraps for supper. I retired at about 9.00 p.m. grateful for my early bedtime, and then... A loud roar split open the night. The lions had arrived at the water-hole at Nossob. Torches flashed around the campsite, people were shouting excitedly and running to the hide. I was too tired to be bothered and rolled over to sleep.

NICOLE'S CHEETAH PICS

Thank you to Nicole Gerstenberg for sending us these beautiful photographs of the two hunting cheetahs. Refer to the previous post as to why Noel only managed to get a quick portrait shot of a cheetah.



The cheetah rest in the shade of our Land Rover



There are estimated to be two hundred cheetah in the Park. The cheetah holds the animal land speed record, attaining speeds of up to 100km/h. This speed, however, can only be maintained for short distances. Here, the cheetah are using the cars to conceal their presence.

 

 



The cheetah sit up. They are watching the springbok in the riverbed.

 

 



 

 

They relax, as the springbok give the alarm, and flee.

 

The cheetah move off, the hunt has failed.

 

 

Some more cheetah photographs taken by Nicole.

 





 

 

Photographs by Nicole Gerstenberg.

NORTH OF NOSSOB

We over-sleep, and it is after 6.00 a.m. when we drive out of the gate. We take the north road, as we came up from the south yesterday. The road is badly corrugated, and I battle to drink the mug of coffee I brought with me. We catch a glimpse of Bat-eared Fox foraging, but they are too far away to photograph. "Tomorrow, we are getting up at 4.00 a.m.," grumbles Noel. "See, we are missing the photos of the nocturnal animals." I reply rather sleepily, that I will try to wake up earlier.

It is a ten kilometre drive to the first water-hole, Cubitje Quap. The birds have not even started to arrive in their flocks to drink water, yet. The road is in a very poor condition. It is a thirteen kilometre drive to Kwang. There are cars at Kwang, but everyone is parked in the shade, waiting for the animals to come and drink. There are a few Wildebeest nearby, but they are just sunning themselves and grazing. The water-hole blinks in the early morning light. It is another thirteen kilometres to Bedinkt. There is no activity at this water-hole either.


We turn around to drive back, even the landscape seems bleak. The sun has risen and streams its warmth into the car, promising another hot day. We bump along the road, and as we near Kwang, we see the cars have stopped in the road. We stop too, as our way is blocked. What is everyone looking at ? Camera lenses are poking out of the cars, and photos are being taken, but we are not able to drive closer.



                                                                                                              Wildebeest grazing

A few Springbok are starting to amble into the riverbed. We wait patiently, and then an animal on the opposite side of the road sits up. We see its head, and yup, we had guessed right ...it is cheetah ! There are two cheetahs prowling in the long grass, but we only see one. Cameras click away, as the cheetah silently stalks along the length of cars. There is great excitement as it nears our vehicle. Noel snaps a portrait shot, as the animal comes closer. It passes Noel's window, but is too close for a photograph with his long lenses. Then... it disappears. We look in the side mirrors, and all Noel can see is a tail. The cheetah has flopped down in the shade of the Land Rover, and is crouching low, watching the approaching Springbok. We wait for over an hour, nothing happens. Our only view consists of other cars and a cheetah tail. I regret not bringing a book with me. In my haste this morning, I left my books in our tent. The Springbok come closer, then they suddenly become alert. They snort in alarm, and flee. The cheetah, having been detected, stands up, and goes back in the long grass away from the riverbend. It disappears over a dune. It is a failed hunt, and we drive back to camp.

The cheetah that lay in the shade of the Land Rover

The Mullins have spent a relaxing morning in the hide at the camp. We are hot and sweaty, as we tell of the cheetah hunt. They tell us they have been watching the antics of the jackals, and how these agile animals try catch the doves at the water-hole. It was a failed hunt for the cheetahs as well as for the jackals. It was a bit of a disappointing morning.

I find a book to read, and do not join the others at the swimming pool that afternoon. I take a shower, turning on the cold tap only. The shampoo barely lathers, the water leaves an oily film on my hair, and I wonder why I even bother to wash my hair. I  am lying in the tent having a nap, when I am awakened by the neighbour in the next campsite. A small snake has been seen, but it has now disappeared. I look for tracks in our camp, but only see footprints. I missed the snake sighting.

The Greek salad

 

 We have a guest at our table that evening. Carmen is travelling on her own, and Noel invites her to share our supper. She proves to be interesting company, as she has travelled to the most desolate regions of Africa, enjoying the wildlife. Joy makes chicken kebabs, and I make coleslaw, together, we make a Greek salad, and with the addition of some boerewors, we have a delectable feast. I chase the jackals whenever they come near, but they do not bother us too much. It is an enjoyable evening. I go to bed, promising to get up early the next morning.