THE NIGHT OF THE JACKAL

Nossob is Noel's favourite spot on this earth. He loves the Camelthorn trees ( Acacia erioloba ) and ( Acacia haematoxylon ) which grow in the Nossob riverbed. These trees are used by nesting raptors, and in particular, Noel's favourite bird, the vulture. I enjoy the remoteness and solitude of the Park, as one travels north on the lonely roads to Union's End.

It is not under a Camelthorn tree that we seek shelter, but a Honey Mesquite, that provides some welcome shade. The Mesquite is not indigenous to this part of the world, but is found in Namibia. It has been accused of being too thirsty, and depleting valuable water resources, but I am grateful for the hospitality of this tree with its attractive light green fronds.

We set up camp in the heat which saps our energy. Each couple erected a dome tent, set out bedding and stretchers, and the Mullins provided a rather posh gazebo, which served as the kitchen area. Check out this photo taken by Dave Mullin, of our rather luxurious camp site:

Our Nossob campsite. Photo: D.Mullin

 

 

It is late afternoon, and we are exhausted. The drive from Twee Rivieren, the intense heat and the physical exertion of setting up camp has taken its toll. We were watched by the ground squirrels that scampered about, peering at us with curious eyes, and every now and then they would approach and sit up and beg, but to no avail.  I was more concerned about the Black-backed Jackals that had suddenly arrived, three in total.



Jackals are carnivores, and belong to the same canid family as Wild Dogs and foxes. Of all the creatures in the Kalahari, these are the most wily and cunning. During the springbok lambing season, the jackals have been known to hunt in packs, and to run through the herd of springbok, in order to distract a mother, and snatch a lamb. They will also hunt springhares, rats, small reptiles, beetles, locusts and termites.



Jackals are also scavengers, and they will wait for opportunities when predators are feeding on a carcass. Lions will sometimes kill a jackal that has become too bold, and leopards will also attack them. However, the jackal will not approach a cheetah on a kill, as the cheetah is too swift, and will chase the jackal to kill it. They are not afraid of hyenas, and will often harass the hyenas, by nipping their hind legs and then darting away.

 

 

Dave and Joy spent time in the hide at Nossob, watching the jackals trying to catch the doves, that had come down to drink at the water-hole. This photo capturing the action of a failed attempt to procure a meal, was taken by Dave Mullin.

  

The jackals were patrolling all the campsites while we ate a delicious supper of lamb chops and vegetables done on the braai. Joy had chopped and sliced red cabbage, baby leeks, carrots, spring onions and brinjals ( aubergine or egg-plant ); wrapped everything in a tinfoil parcel, and placed it on fire. Night had fallen, and two eyes glowed in the dark. I did not see the opportunistic jackal snatch two lamb chops for his supper. I was not a "happy camper" !

 

There was much jackal yipping and yowling during the night. The marauding jackals were raiding the other campers. There was much shouting and cursing, as goods were sneaked away. I tossed about on the camping stretcher, and finally sank into a deep sleep. In the early hours, I was awokened by a deep, throaty roar. The king of the Kalahari was exercising his vocal chords...

SHAKE, RATTLE AND ROLL

It's a 4.00 a.m. start to the new day, as Noel wants to be the first to drive out of the camp. We start to queue at about 5.00, and wait at the gate to collect our permit. The Park authorities have to be informed of your whereabouts in the Park, so that they can keep track of you, and if you do not return to camp they will look for you. The cars pull up, and people stand around and chat, There are many accents, some foreign and a few local. We greet our fellow-campers. Noel discusses photography, and shows everyone the Sigma lenses he has brought with him. He hands out micro-fibre cloths for cleaning the dust off camera equipment; bottle-openers; pens with Sandisk and Olympus branding, and other freebies from Tudortech, his employer.

 I am asked by a tourist from Belgium as to what animal I wish to see that morning. I reply, "leopard". I have never seen a leopard in the Kalahari, so it is high on my wish-list. The leopard is nocturnal, so the best time to view an active leopard is between sunset and sunrise.  An American chap tells me that he lives near Yellowstone Park, and asks if I have heard about that park. I tell him that I know that Yogi Bear lives there. There are smiles all around, the air is still crisp as we huddle in jackets, waiting for the gate-keeper, and to collect our permits.

      Gemsbok in the riverbed.

 The Park used to be called the Kalahari Gemsbok National Park.

 

There is no activity at the Samevloeiing water-hole. The two eland carcasses are still lying there, and scavengers have not dragged them away. We cannot detect any evidence of nocturnal activity. We see ostriches, wildebeest ( gnu ), springbok, red hartebeest and gemsbok (oryx ) . These are the Kalahari "regulars" and we don't even stop to photograph them, as they are often seen on game drives. It is a short drive this morning, as we have to head back to Twee Rivieren for breakfast and to pack up. I order a coffee with my breakfast at the restaurant, forgetting that the water is salty, and thus the coffee would have an unpleasant taste. I quickly cancel the order and settle for a fruit juice instead. Back at the chalet, I tap off the water we brought from Kuruman, and make coffee for everyone. I think the Mullins are grateful for our alternate source of water, even though the water containers are heavy and cumbersome, and take up valuable space in the car. We certainly would not have to drink, oily, salty or brack water on this trip.



Blue Wildebeest

 

 

We bid farewell to the "civilisation" of Twee Rivieren, and head up north to Nossob, 364 kilometres away. The trip will take us over five hours. The sun is starting to climb high in the sky, and the temperature will reach a sweltering 38 degrees by midday. We stop at the Melkvlei picnic site, where I was pleased to see the introduction of sliding gates across the entrance to the toilets. In previous years, many a tourist has been surprised by a sleeping lion seeking shelter in the cool rest rooms.

The Mullins at Melkvlei

 
  After a short break at Melkvlei, where we are allowed to get out and stretch our legs ( after checking for the presence of any predators ! ); we hit the road again. The road is in a very poor condition. It is so badly corrugated that we shake and shudder all the way to Nossob. It was Dave who said, " It is just shake, rattle and roll ".

 Secretary Bird

 

 

Too hot to do anything.

 

 

Midday is not a good time for wildlife photography, as the light is very harsh. The animals will often lie down in the cool shade, and there is little activity. The heat in the Kalahari forms a heat haze, which creates a shimmer that can spoil photos. The hotter it was getting, the fewer were our sightings. However, we did see the following: vultures, circling high on thermals; dead eland; secretary birds; a meerkat ( suricate ) which ran across the road in front of our car; kudu; a fleeting glimpse of African Wild Cat and two sleepy lions lying in the shade.

 We were hot and exhausted, and "all shook up", by the time we arrived at Nossob. Now, we need to set up camp ...

WHERE ARE THE BARKING GECKOS ?

The sun was setting over the dunes, amidst a flurry of clouds tinged with orange and pink. It was our first evening in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park. Noel raised his glass, a cocktail of gin and tonic water, with  lots of ice and a slice of fresh lemon. The lemons had been brought from our garden in Johannesburg, about 1 200 kilometres away. "Cheers, cheers, here's to a good trip and to good sightings and to good photography," echoed the four of us, as we raised our glasses. Yup, we had brought our own alcohol, so the "no purchasing of  alcohol on a Sunday" law did not effect us. "Cheers, Oom Piet, here's to you ! " Noel raised his glass in a toast. "You taught me a lot of things about the Kalahari, Oom Piet. You introduced me to gin and tonic and to your tot measure with Tietiesbaai inscribed on it, and we had many great conversations around your braai fire. So, once again, here's to you."  Noel was referring to Piet Heymans, who had a passion for the desert and its life, and had spent many hours photographing it.





Together with Henriette Engelbrecht, Oom Piet had written a book entitled, "Ousus: lady of the Kalahari." Oom Piet had photographed four lionesses and their cubs drinking at a waterhole at Kousant in January 1993. Just over a year later, Oom Piet, saw one of the female cubs, with the characteristic notches in her ear, and knew that this was a cub he had  originally photographed at the Kousant waterhole. Oom Piet took a photo of the regal lioness, which had now reached adulthood, surveying the landscape. He entered this photo in a photographic competition, and entitled it "Ousus", which means "older sister". It took over thirty trips to the Park since 1993 for Oom Piet to photograph and document the life of this lioness, he named Ousus. Ousus was not seen on every trip, and at times, Oom Piet became despondent. It was difficult to photograph and to track this lioness, as Oom Piet was restricted to gate times and to driving on the roads, and he was not able to visit the Park as often as he wished. Ousus lived for several years, and successfully raised a family of cubs. Her cubs, named Jan ( after Jan Hamman, chief photographer of Die Beeld newspaper ) and Freek, were often seen haunting the dunes. We were told that these two males are still seen today.

Oom Piet took a series of photographs of a Cape Cobra swallowing a Puff Adder near the Langklaas waterhole. These pictures have been published in many newspapers and other publications, worldwide. Oom Piet sat and photographed  for 52 minutes, watching the Cobra swallow the other snake. Below are four photographs from that sequence:

"You know," said Noel taking a sip of his gin and tonic, "I learnt a lot about the Kalahari from Oom Piet. He told us that if you see the agamas sitting high up in the bushes, and they are looking North, then it is going to rain." I glanced up at the cloudless sky. It did not look like rain, and I had not observed any agamas. The air was still warm from the scorching hot day and it was silent. I listened for the Barking Gecko ( Ptenopus garrulus ) bu theard only one calling in the distance. I always know that it is sunset in the Kalahari when I hear a cacaphony of clacking noises. The male Barking Gecko calls during the early evening in an effort to attrarct its mate. I listened but there were only one or two "clacks", and then nothing.  I was missing the sunset chorus, and was wondering what had happened to all the Barking Geckos.

KINGS OF THE KALAHARI

The stench from the rotting eland carcasses was too much for Noel and myself, so we drove eleven kilometres to Leeuwdril ( lion shiver ). We were amply rewarded with a sighting of two young male lions. They came to the waterhole and drank, and the having quenched their thirst, they playfully gambolled off into the dunes. It was a very brief sighting, but Noel captured the moment this one jumped over the waterhole:

I always feel pity for lions, as their life in the Kalahari is tough. The cubs have a high mortality rate, and they are prone to disease. Dr Paul Funston, sponsored by +Nedbank Green Trust, recently studied the lion population for three years. The research entailed the radio-collaring of twenty members of resident prides, and tracking them across all three borders of the Park. In the past four years, it has been recorded that 93 lions were shot and killed on the surrounding farms.

The lions in the Kalahari have large home ranges because of the relatively low prey densities. In the quest to find potential prey, large distances are covered, and the Park's borders are transgressed. Lions are enticed by the presence of domestic animals on the farms as these are easy to hunt. It is estimated that there are about eighteen resident prides with about 450 members. At the rate the lions are being exterminated, it could mean that the population is not very sustainable.

Dr Funston met with the farmers, in an effort to find a solution. A farmer from Botswana stated: " If the lions remain on our farms for five days, they kill a lot of sheep and cattle. We have similiar problems with leopard and rooikat ( caracal ) but they don't take out as many animals as the lions." The farmer further stated that he had shot at least a hundred lions in his lifetime.

The farmers have been urged to contact the Park officials the moment lions wander onto their farms. This way, the lions can be darted and captured by Park officials, and returned to the Park, instead of being killed. In the past four years, 68 lions have been rescued in this manner.

A farmer from the unfenced Botswana side, complained that although the farmers receive compensation when the farm animals are killed by the lions, the compensation is not adequate. "At the moment we get about 900 Pula ( R1 260 ) for every cow or bull that is killed, but a bull is worth  3 000 Pula ( R 4 200 ) ".


A solution would be to use fences to stop the lions from entering farms, but this is costly, and there is always an ongoing need to patrol and maintain the fences. The farms are large, because the livestock need big grazing areas, as the desert sand does not support rich grazing pastures. Fencing could also cut off migration routes, like that of the eland. At the current rate of killing problem lions, the future of the population is in jeopardy.

The young male lion we saw at Leeuwdril. He was in superb condition, possibly because the eland migration had provided an abundance of easy prey.

 

A SURPRISE AT SAMEVLOEIING

"Samevloeiing" means "flowing together", and it is the confluence of the two rivers.There was a surprise waiting for us at the  Samevloeiing waterhole; and it was eland ! There were two dead ones, and a rather forlorn one meandering amongst the  two carcasses. The carcasses had been "hollowed out" by scavengers, as all the entrails and innards had been removed and eaten, leaving what looks like a hide-covered outer shell. The smell was putrid.

 

The eland at Samevloeiing,with a carcass in the background

 

 

 

Eland portrait

 

Why was this a surprise ? It was the first time that I had ever seen eland in the Park. The early Dutch settlers called this antelope, "eland" as it reminded them of the elk, So, "eland" simply means "elk". During the winter months, the eland had migrated from the central Kalahari. They may have been seeking water, or they may have been fleeing the extensive fires that were raging in that region. A lot had already returned, but the pregnant cows and a few youngsters had remained.



 

A pregnant-looking eland

 

 

An official report on the eland and their impact on water resources, follows:

 

 

Date: 24th October 2012

During June 2012, large herds of Eland started migrating out of Botswana into the South African side of the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park (KTP). This movement is a natural phenomenon that takes place every few years, but nobody can forecast when the next movement will take place, unlike the well-known migrations that annually take place between the Serengeti NP and Masai Mara Game Reserve in east Africa.

The last time a similar movement of Eland into the South African side of the Park occurred, was in 2007. According to reports from staff who witnessed the 2007 movement, the animals then were thin and probably looking for better food sources, while this year most animals were in a fair to good condition. It is difficult to say exactly how many Eland moved into the southwest of the Park, but during an aerial census in September 2012, a total of 3 117 Eland were counted in the dunes on the South African side alone. Dr. Mike Knight, who has been flying the plane for many years while aerial counts were conducted, said that during no previous count in the KTFP had so many Eland been observed. It is also not known if some of the Eland came as far as the Central Kalahari Game Reserve, but there is a possibility.

Under normal circumstances, when there are only a small number of Eland on the South African side of the KTP, the solar pumps in the Park are capable of supplying in the demand of the game by filling the reservoirs, tanks and water troughs. The only need for a solar pump to deliver water is sunlight. Since the arrival of the Eland the solar pumps and more specifically the Watermax pumps (which are in the majority) in the Park, could simply not stay ahead. Waterholes equipped with Grundfos pumps and windmills seem to be the only ones capable to cope with the large demand from the animals. Over time many windmills in the Park have been replaced with solar pumps.

Eland behave like cattle in many ways. New problems arose due to the Eland Herds moving into the South African side, which were unexpected. All of a sudden some of the water troughs were found trampled to dust (Eland bulls are much heavier than the normal Gemsbuck and Blue Wildebeest that visit water troughs). Broken troughs caused water to overflow into the sand and reservoirs and tanks ran dry. Some ball valve mechanisms were also damaged due to Eland climbing inside empty water troughs in an effort to get more water. The purpose of the reservoirs and tanks is to have a source of water which keeps feeding the water troughs at night when the solar pumps can no longer supply water. Several water troughs already had to be repaired with cement. In order to do so those water troughs had to be closed for a couple of days to allow the cement to dry before it could be re-opened.

During the day, while tourists are still moving around in the Auob and Nossob rivers, only a few Eland are seen, but after the gates are closed in the evening, the Eland move into the riverbeds where they then empty the water supply in the waterholes, Camera traps that are regularly put out at different waterholes have captured hundreds of photos to prove that. On some photos it is clear that by the end of the day some troughs were full of water - filled by the solar pumps during the day, but later that same evening numbers of Eland were visible drinking and still later the empty water troughs would be clearly visible. The next morning when the tourists reached the water holes, the troughs would be empty, the reason for many questions and complaints. Most solar pumps first pump water into reservoirs and from there the water runs through to the troughs. When the reservoirs still have water inside there is no problem, but with all the pressure coming from Eland as explained above, every morning the solar pumps have to start pumping from scratch. Rangers have witnessed on many occasions that water troughs were full or almost full by the end of a day, only to be empty the next morning.

Nobody knows when the Eland will return to Botswana. Some females are currently calving, which may hold them back longer than expected. It is clear that the water problem will not go away until the big herds move back into Botswana. The problem was not caused by Rangers nor Management not doing their work, nobody knew that such an influx of Eland from Botswana would occur for such a long period (it is currently in its fourth month). The way forward is to prepare to be able to accommodate large number of animals in future, by increasing water storage capacity to ensure sustained water provisioning to animals , whether migrating or resident.

Micho Ferreira
Section Ranger: Twee Rivieren
Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park



 

Jackals scavenging on an eland carcass at the Kij Kij waterhole

TWEE RIVIEREN - AT LAST !

 "We shall not cease from exploration ...

 and returning to our point of departure, see the place as if for the first time."

                                                                                                                        T.S.Eliot

I have visited this Park five or six times, but many years ago. In those days it was still the "Kalahari Gemsbok Park." Noel has possibly had more than twelve visits. This was his first visit in eight years, as he did not return after the death of his friend, Jan Hamman. We both shared many adventures in this Park with Jan and Elsie Hamman, and we have many wonderful memories. Iti s a first visit for Dave and Joy Mullin, and they have no idea what is in store for them ...



The Land Rover makes it to Twee Rivieren

We check in at Twee Rivieren, and receive the keys for our chalet. The chalets have low-slung thatched roofs, which almost extend to the ground. They are cool and comfortable. They also have 24 hour electricity supplied by ESKOM. (Note to Teresa: This means 24 hour air-conditioning !) Gone are the days when one heard the low rumble of the generator, which was started up every morning before sunrise. The generator start-up was so loud, that one did not need an alarm clock. One could only appreciate the silence of the night when the generator was switched off in the evenings. It was a constant sound during the day. There were other changes, too. The shop was bigger, the staff were sullen, and one could not even buy a beer. It was Sunday, and the liquor laws of the Northern Cape province prohibit the sale of alcohol on Sundays. I was approached by some Dutch tourists, who were unable to get an explanation from the staff, as to why they could not buy a bottle of wine to drink with their evening meal. "But, it is not so in Holland,'' spluttered a Dutch lady, angrily shaking her head.

 The shop at Twee Rivieren

 

 

The heat of midday was oppressive, so we would nap until 4.00 p.m. The animals would seek shade or return to their burrows. We would see animal activity once the air had cooled off a bit. So, we retreated into the chalet, snoozed, and then it was time for the first game drive ...

 





UPINGTON AND FURTHER NORTH

The road from Olifantshoek to Upington, is long, flat and straight. Trucks carrying goods to Namibia hog the road, as they slowly creep to the border post at Upington. The Land Rover was swallowing fuel in great gulps. We would need to re-fuel in Upington. In an effort to reduce the fuel consumption, we would not switch on the air-conditioning. I was hot, and my hair had blown around with the open windows. The temperature was climbing to 37 degrees C. I envied the Mullins in their Nissan X-Trail, as they sat in cool comfort, with their air-conditioning unit keeping them cool. They did not need to re-fuel so often either.

Suddenly, green vegetation appeared on our left. We were admiring the lush, vertile valley of the Orange River. The Orange River was named many years ago, after the Dutch Prince of Orange. It flows through this semi-desert region, giving it its name of "The Green Kalahari". The river creates a cool micro-climate for the growing of grapes. The soil consists of alluvial deposits, granite, dolerite and shale. The grape varietals are sultana, columbard, chenin and hanepoot. These make up some of my favourite semi-sweet and dessert wines. Only 3% of the grapes are red varietals. The wine route stretches 300 kilometres, and vineyards are found on both banks. All together there are 794 wine farms in this region. Cotton and lucerne are also grown here. The Orange River with its fertile valley brings life to the harsh and dry landscape.

We stop at Upington, refuel, and off we go on the long, straight road which leads up to the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park. I remember the days when the tarred road suddenly ran out about five kilometres after Upington. In those days, we had 280 kilometres of sandy and badly corrugated gravel roads. I recall one year it had rained, and Noel had to tow a farmer out of the mud, and then a few kilometres on, a Park visitor.

The scenery changed to high rolling sand dunes, and flat grey salt pans. The salt pans reminded Dave of the World Land Speed record which was set by Malcolm Campbell in 1929. The salt pan was Verneukpan, and it is some 30 kilometres south of Upington. We saw a salt mine with a large heap of salt crystals glistening in the sun. We passed modest, little homesteads, which housed members of the local farming community. Big untidy bunches of dried thatch-grass appeared on telephone poles. These are communal nests for the small Social Weaver. I looked out for the ochre-coloured and burnt-orange sand dunes decorated with rows of sand ripples. I enjoy seeing these. It was already a hot Sunday afternoon, and then...

 

The new gate to the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park

 

 

The road lead to a gate, and a sign saying "Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park" and then a big round building with a sign outside saying "reception". Twee Rivieren, at last !!!

The new reception building at Twee Rivieren

KURUMAN TO OLIFANTSHOEK

It is the morning of the 4th of November. I had listened for rain during the night. There had been a few raindrops, but typical of the desert, the rainfall is meagre. I was disappointed, but ... today was THE DAY ! We hurriedly packed our overnight bags, filled our remaining water containers, and bade farewell to our host, Pieter Pretorius and Frikkie, the resident African Grey parrot at Azalea Guest House. Early Sunday morning, and everything  was quiet in Kuruman after the raucous street parties we had witnessed the evening before. We met the Mullins who had over-nighted at De Mynhuis Guest House, checked the vehicles, and we were on the road again. Next stop was Olifantshoek.

The scenery consisted of arid shrub savannah and slag heaps due to the mining of iron ore. Beneath the desert sand lies the largest land-based sedimentary manganese deposit in the world. I had to research manganese and find out why it was a valuable resource. I learnt that 80 percent of the world's commercially viable manganese sources are found in South Africa. Manganese is essential in the manufacture of steel, as it adds strength to the metal compound. It is also used to to produce an alloy, which together with aluminium, produces a metal which is resistant to corrosion, for example, aluminium beverage cans. It may also be used to manufacture monetary coins. Manganese dioxide is used in disposable batteries, and in the making of clear glass. Pigments derived from manganese are used to colour paint and ceramics. It is also used in laboratories to produce oxygen and chlorine. Organo-manganese compounds are added to petroleum to increase its octane rating, and it also reduces "engine knock." Phew, I never knew that a mineral would have so many uses, then I read that manganese is also found in our bodies. As a trace element, it is found in tiny amounts and plays a role in forming bones, connective tissue, blood clotting, hormone production, and fat and carbohydrate metabolism.

 Manganese is often found with iron ore, and this region is also home to big iron ore mines like the Kumba Mine in Sishen. The Kumba Mine is one of the world's seven largest open-pit mines, measuring 900 metres across (almost a kilometre). The largest single blasting operation took place here in 1981. A single blast broke up 7,2 million tonnes of rock. The mine operates 24/7, and in 2011, 38,9 million tonnes of iron ore were produced. It is said the Kumba Mine has sufficient reserves to sustain production for the next twenty years.

The iron ore is processed and then transported by rail to Saldanha Bay in the Cape Province, where it is exported. The Sishen-Saldanha railway line is known as the "Iron Ore Export Line " and is a long-haul heavy railway line. This railway line is 861 kilometres long ( 535 miles ) and is used almost exclusively for the transport of iron ore. One trip usually transports 22 000  tonnes of iron ore, and the wagons with their payloads are about four kilometres long. The longest and heaviest train trip was the carrying of iron ore from the Kumba Mine in Sishen to Saldanha Bay in August 1987. The train was 7,5 kilometres long, and consisted of 660 wagons carrying 68 640 tonnnes of ore. We saw a train hauling its long load against the backdrop of the Langeberg Mountain range as we approached Olifantshoek. It was an impressive sight, as is the following link to video footage I found on YouTube:
                   

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nB0UyVZQhYo

However, the Kumba Mine saw strike action on October, the 3rd until October the 15th. Strikers illegally occupied the mine, prevented operations from taking place, and damaged the heavy mining equipment. The strikers were only dispersed when the South African Police force evacuated them. We were fortunate that we did not see any protests or rioting, as it was both the mine-workers and the farm workers that were causing unrest. It would have taken only one incident of stone throwing to damage a vehicle, and to cause the holiday to be cancelled. Olifantshoek had seen parents rioting in the streets, only two weeks prior to our visit, as they were protesting about their children's education.

 

 Dave and Noel were grumbling that they were hungry, so we stopped in the small town of Olifantshoek. It was peaceful, with only a few people milling about, but, breakfast is not served in Olifantshoek. I could not believe that menus did not have variations of bacon, eggs, muesli, yoghurt, fruit salad etc. We settled down to a bread roll with lettuce, tomato and avocado. Thank goodness, we could have coffee. Refreshed and with full tummies, we resumed our trip on the N14 down to Upington.

KURUMAN - HERE WE COME !

It has been eleven months of waiting. Yup, the booking for the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park was made  on the day the bookings opened - 1st December 2011. We were so excited, as the months rolled by. The booking was paid and secure, the itinerary had been checked and re-checked, the camping equipment had been inspected ... Now, the Land Rover was being packed, the day of departure had dawned. The roof rack was in place, the army tent was being secured, big plastic containers called ammunition boxes were being secured, a fold-up table was being secured, all tied down with ratchet strapping on the vehicle roof  The camping fridge had been packed with vacuum-packed steaks and traditional South African sausage called "boerewors". There were bags of charcoal for the barbeque or "braai" as we called it. But, most important of all were the big 25 litre containers to be filled with water. The bore-hole water in the Kalahari is too saline and brack to be used for drinking and cooking. A cup of salty coffee with a strange, bitter taste is not to my liking. There is a risk of dehydration in the hot conditions, so we needed three to four litres of drinking water per person per day.

Noel was finally ready, no wait, some more camera equipment ... okay, now we are ready... wait ...some more radio equipment ...wait...some more stuff for that mysterious person called JUSTIN CASE...okay, now we are ready ... wait ... we have forgotten the binoculars ... the bird identification book ... did we pack it ? A final check of the radio, a check for the second battery to power the fridge, a goodbye to the dog and to our son, Rowan, and off we go ...

A week before, Noel and I had travelled to Dragon Peaks Mountain Resort in the Drakensberg Mountains. Saturday, 27th October had heralded a miserable, cold and wet morning. It was a working weekend for Noel, as he was promoting Sigma lenses at the Natal Photographic Society Congress. I had met Dave and Joy Mullin at previous events and promotions, when they were representing the Hibiscus Coast Camera Club. They had told me of their plans to travel to Mabuasehube in Botswana in August. Unfortunately, they were unable to go. Mabuasehube is the far eastern section of the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park. I stood chatting to Dave, watching the dripping rain, shivering in the thin jersey I had brought with me. It was summer in South Africa and it was unseasonally cold. "Dave," I said, "we are going to the Kalahari next Saturday. Would you like to come with us ?" Dave did not hesitate. "I would love to," was his reply, and then he hesitated, "I must first ask Joy."

The Mullins had to pack up their camp site and caravan in the pouring rain and slushy mud of the Drakensberg, and travel home to Shelly Beach, Kwa-Zulu Natal. Tents had to be dried, provisions had to be bought, the camping fridge was re-stocked, accommodation had to be booked for overnight stays en-route to the Park. It must have been a hectic week for them. But now, it  was Saturday evening, 3rd November, and we were sitting with the Mullins, enjoying a scrumptious buffet at the Red Sands Country Lodge, 17 kilometres from the town of Kuruman.

The town of Kuruman was our half-way stop to the Park, and we would overnight at the Azalea Guest House. We had already reached the Kalahari Desert, after passing through the town of Vryburg. Kuruman is home to a natural spring referred to as "The Eye". This spring arises from an underground dolomitic cave, and supplies the town with over 20 million litres of sweet water every day. It is possibly the biggest natural spring in the Southern Hemisphere. Dave and Joy visited this oasis to fill a water container, and admired the water-lillies and Willow trees. An endangered species of cichlid fish together with carp, barbel, bream and blue kurper are found in the cool water.

The Eye at Kuruman

  

In 1821, Robert Moffat founded a London Missionary Society mission station in Kuruman. The famous explorer, David Livingstone, took up a position as a missionary in 1841. He married Mary, the beautiful daughter of Robert Moffat, and settled in Kuruman. The Livingstone's house is now a museum.

As we sat savouring the cuisine presented to us at the Red Sands Country Lodge, we discussed the two roads leading to the Park. The gravel road via Hotazel, ( yes, there is a town called Hotazel ) is shorter than the other road, but in a poor condition. We opted for the much longer, tarred route along the N14 to Upington.

Two excited couples went to sleep that night dreaming of arriving at the Park the following day. I could not wait to see Twee Rivieren, which means "two rivers". It is the main camp and headquarters of the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park. There was still a long road ahead of us ...

Azalea Guest House in Kuruman